The Stress will help to choose spirits

It is published the Visitor in пн, 23/06/2008 - 09:28

In 1990 the French Perfumery Community led by the main perfumer of house Jean Patou Jean Kerleo has definitively confirmed 7 basic perfumery types which in turn form rather branched out "families" of aromas. The perfumery type is understood as the general structure and the impression made by aroma, thanks to those or other notes. It is necessary to tell at once, that these of 7 most basic types constantly replenish all with new and new branches, there are even disagreements, whether 7 types still to allocate or more, but to any person, the interested perfumery, all the same it is necessary to know the cores. It:

1. Citrus.

In citrus the essence received by squeezing of a dried peel of fruits, such as a lemon, a bergamot, an orange is felt, a grapefruit etc. In this family there are the first colognes used by men and women.

2. Flower.

This family, the most important, groups the spirits which main theme is the flower: a rose, a jasmin, a violet, a lilac, a lily of the valley, a narcissus, a tuberose.

3. Wood. This family includes spirits with warm shades, such as a sandal-wood tree and пачули, sometimes dry, as a cedar, and ветивер. At man's compositions along with the wood are present лавандовые and citron notes.

4. Амбровые.

Under the name “spirits амбровые”, which else name “east spirits”, compositions with soft, пудровыми, vanilla, ladanika-labdanuma and strongly pronounced animal notes are grouped. Подсемейство with soft амбровым a smell most representatively in this category.

5. A skin.

The original family in perfumery has united spirits with dry notes, in which tried to reproduce a characteristic smell of a skin (a smoke, the burnt tree, tobacco) with "head" flower shades. Exists a few spirits of this type.

6. Шипры.

The name of this family goes from the spirits, which Francoiss Koti named so at their release in 1917 the Success of it шипра was such, that it became the head large cемейства which unites the spirits based, mainly, on chords of an oak moss, ladanika-labdanuma, пачули, a bergamot.

7. Ferns.

This name has no relation to a smell of ferns, contains a chord from notes of a lavender, wood, an oak moss, кумарина, a bergamot etc.

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